What to see in Pelion

In Anakasia, on the edge of Volos and on the way up the mountain, a stone mansion from 1835 holds some of the finest work of the folk painter Theofilos. In 1912, as a guest of the owner Giannis Kontos, he painted murals here with scenes from Greek history. If you like it, carry on to the Velentzas bakery in Alli Meria, which Theofilos decorated in 1910.

The “lady of Pelion”, 13 km from Volos, is the first village on the road up to Hania. It was the mountain’s most important trading centre, and the mansions, fountains and big plane-shaded square still show it. Walk to the chapel of Panagia Portarea, whose monastery the village grew around, and visit the History and Folk Art Museum.

The “balcony of Pelion”, 17 km from Volos. The houses hang in tiers from the slope, and from the paved square under the plane trees you see the whole Pagasetic Gulf. The village grew up in 1204 around the monastery of the Virgin. Don’t miss the Museum of Folk Art and History of Pelion in the Topalis mansion and the church of the Dormition. Come early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.

Agios Lavrentios is one of the oldest villages on the mountain, 20 km from Volos, with views over the Pagasetic Gulf. Its grand church of Agios Apostolos o Neos, built around 1800 for the young martyr born here, is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Pelion. Just outside the village, the monastery of Agios Lavrentios, built in 1378, gave the village its name.

“Moutzouris” climbs from Lechonia to Milies in about 90 minutes, on a track just 60 cm wide designed by Evaristo de Chirico, father of the painter Giorgio de Chirico. The stone bridge at Taxiarchis and the stop at Gatzea are the moments you will remember. It runs mostly at weekends; check the timetable on its page before you go.

The end of the railway and one of the liveliest villages in Central Pelion, 28 km from Volos. In the church of the Pammegiston Taxiarchon on the square, with its 12 domes, the Revolution in Pelion was declared in May 1821. Around it you will find the Folk Museum, the historic “Psychis Akos” library and, further down, the railway station. Neighbouring Vyzitsa is the perfect next stop.

Zagora is the largest village in Pelion, spread over four neighbourhoods on the slopes above the Aegean. At the Ellinomouseio, the “School of Rigas”, Rigas Feraios, Anthimos Gazis and Grigorios Konstantas studied; it is the oldest school in Pelion, from the early 18th century. Don’t miss the municipal library too.

On the square of Agia Paraskevi in Tsagarada stands one of the most famous plane trees in Greece. Its trunk is so wide that it takes several people to hug it, and its branches cover almost the whole square. Have a coffee beneath it, then head down for a swim at Fakistra.

The tiny harbour below Mouresi, with two little coves split by a strip of land. On the hill between them stand the ruins of the castle the Venetians built to protect themselves from pirates. It was once the only harbour of East Pelion; today it is one of its quietest and most photogenic spots, with a few tavernas by the water. Cobbled paths start here too, like Tsagarada–Damouchari–Agios Ioannis.

Argalasti is the main village of South Pelion, 40 km from Volos, with a big square and life all year round. A few steps from the square, the late-19th-century girls’ school, where the poet Kostas Varnalis was headmaster in the early 20th century, has been restored and is a listed monument. From here it is 15–20 minutes to Potistika and the Aegean beaches.